Climbs 31
Rocktype Sandstone (soft)
Altitude 170m a.s.l
Faces E

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Heighley Castle,Tier 1, Holds are cleaner than they actually look. © JamesM

Crag features

A very useful quarry of vertical sandstone giving a great number of fingery boulder problems and routes. Traditionally enjoyed by many in the Stoke area, it is now in the possession of an uncompromising owner who refuses to permit climbing. A shame.

Traditionally recorded as routes, but best seen as a bouldering venue - topping out on many of the awful finishes is an esoteric risk. The bouldering consists of traverses, arêtes and walls, and is very fingery on generally sound rock. There are a significant number of vital pebbles, vulnerable to misuse, that make for crucial holds on some of the problems.

The quarries can be vivid green and damp on occasions so the best times to climb are when there is no leaf cover on the trees, November through May. Unfortunately these times also coincide with the pheasant shooting and breeding season.

ORIGINAL GUIDEBOOK: anyone wanting a copy of the very first guidebook (written Jan 1973) please email: [email protected]. It was already outdated by the time it got copied by one of the South Cheshire Club members (done at work when office staff went home).

Sadly, any follow on listings in bona fide guides appeared to have used many of the original names but reallocated then to different climbs - thus Suicide Wall & Suicide Arete are NOT the original lines. 

Access Banned

The farmer at Heighley Farm continues to turn climbers away. Please leave if asked. Please Note: Do not chip or manufacture any more holds and if holds need brushing please use a soft-brush rather than wire.

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