Climbs 361
Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Altitude 100m a.s.l
Faces NW
Committing time © A Crook
A fine sandstone cliff overlooking the River Mersey and the motorway. It is often driven past at speed and scorned by uninformed climbers travelling to North Wales. One day they should take the time to have a look at the place since most will be pleasantly surprised by the compact and clean walls offering some superb routes on great rock.
In winter the rock does turn green and slimey but after a spell of dry weather it cleans up nicely.
It should be mentioned that this crag was very 'unfashionable' for many years and the grading system left unchallenged for decades. Many climbs are poorly protected and dubious rock is ubiquitous. Therefore the grades may well be inaccurate. Feedback on grades and qualitative ratings would be welcome.
Sandstone is notoriously fragile when damp, steer clear after rain.
Lies directly above the Helsby village park there and make an "exhausting" scramble up the hillside. The quarry car park on Alvanley Rd offers a shortcut to the bouldering.
Avoid the crag after rain - the porous rock absorbs water causing holds to become brittle. The top tier bouldering normally dries fastest and is exposed to any wind going.
Dates: 1 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
Peregrines nest left of Clashhooks Gully as you look in, avoid all routes on Upper & Lower Central Buttresses during this period. Raven have also been sighted around the 'The Notch' - climbers should avoid this area if birds are in residence.
Peregrine chicks were confirmed up until 2022/23. We’re less clear of the situation more recently. Avoid any activity that may disturb these beautiful and unique birds. Peregrine nests can be quite minimal so be especially cautious of cleaning even outside nesting season.
The site is actively monitored by local bird groups, avoid until the agreed date of 30 June and possibly longer to give chicks chance to fledge. Peregrines are a protected species covered by criminal law.
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