Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Altitude 100m a.s.l
Committing time © A Crook
A fine sandstone cliff overlooking the River Mersey and the motorway. It is often driven past at speed and scorned by uninformed climbers travelling to North Wales. One day they should take the time to have a look at the place since most will be pleasantly surprised by the compact and clean walls offering some superb routes on great rock.
In winter the rock does turn green and slimey but after a spell of dry weather it cleans up nicely.
It should be mentioned that this crag was very 'unfashionable' for many years and the grading system left unchallenged for decades. Many climbs are poorly protected and dubious rock is ubiquitous. Therefore the grades may well be inaccurate. Feedback on grades and qualitative ratings would be welcome.
Lies directly above the town of Helsby: park there and make an "exhausting" scramble up the hillside.
Avoid the crag after rain as the porous rock absorbs water - this causes the holds to become brittle. Top tier bouldering normally dries fastest.
Dates: 1 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
Peregrines nest left of Clashhooks Gully, please avoid all routes on Upper & Lower Central Buttresses during this period. Raven have also been sighted around the route 'The Notch' - climbers are advised to avoid this area if the birds are in residence.
Peregrines confirmed to have nested 2022 with chicks. Avoid until at least the agreed date of 30 June and possibly longer to give chicks chance to fledge.