Rockfax Description
130m. (First approximation) To the right of the big gully is an attractive overhanging yellow wall capped by many roofs.
Approach - Traverse grass ledges leftwards from a shoulder above the beach to the large flake at the base of the steep wall.
1) N5, 10m. Climb up the left side of the big flake to a stance at a 'funky blade'.
2) N6, 30m. Continue to the top of the flake and step over to a steep hand-crack. Climb this up the jug-covered wall until it bends slightly to the right to a stance on some decent footholds.
3) N7+, 20m. Continue up the crack until it closes, then traverse left on pockets to a thin crack. Climb this and mantel up to a ledge. Move left to a stance.
4) N6+, 20m. The team tried to force a direct finish but ran out of courage/ideas after one steep pitch so...
4a) N3+, 70m. An easy escape, scramble up the gully on the left.
Descent - Scramble rightwards and down along a thin grass ledge across the slabs. Care needed and harder when wet. © Rockfax
FA. Joakim S?derstr?m, Jonas Wiklund, 27.7.2010 27/Jul/2010.
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Grade: n7+ ***
(Presten)