UKC

Climbs 217
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 370m a.s.l
Faces SW

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Readza throws some shapes on Borstal Breakout. © Niall Grimes

Crag features

The superb castellated buttresses of Hen Cloud offer some of grit's finest crack climbs, and these include routes which are amongst the longest anywhere on grit. There are even some genuine multi-pitch climbs to savour. Perched above a steep bank, the positions are superb as is the outlook but, despite all these positives, the crag is rarely crowded. The climbs cover the grade spectrum and like the nearby crag of the Roaches, there is an excellent selection of lower grade climbs.

Despite facing south, the crag is inclined to be green and lichenous, especially on the left (because of the grass ledges) and as such is not a good destination after damp weather. The crag is very exposed to the wind, and will catch any precipitation carried on Westerlies.

Approach notes

Occasional bird bans, usually spring to early summer. See access notes below. Parking available in designated bays only beneath the crag; do not park outside of the bays in the restriction zone -- you will get a ticket. If it's really full, careful parking on the road is permitted outside of the restriction zone (back towards Upper Hulme).

Restricted Access

The footpath up to the centre of the crag is eroding in places, please try to walk on stones/boulders where possible. This whole area is vulnerable to fire in dry conditions and the ecology is sensitive.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 26 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

The climbing restriction extends from Nutted By Reality to Easy Come inclusive. Please also avoid walking above the restricted area of the crag.
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Climbs at this crag

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