A better route than Anaconda though it can suffer from being a bit dirty. Pitch 1 is an excellent E4 6a.
1) 6a, 20m. A short crack leads to a ledge (possible belay). Continue up the crack to its termination then head right up another thinner crack. Hard moves above gain a pocket and then the ledge - a great pitch.
2) 6b, 10m. Climb straight up as for Anaconda but move right up a crack to easier ground. Finishing direct is harder again. © Rockfax
FA. (Pitch 1) Jim Moran. FA. (Pitch 2) Dave Jones (1 nut) 1978.
The Roaches - Routes Graded List, Hardish grit routes that have good gear but aren't staminafests, ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List, Peak Rock/14/Gritstone After the Gold Rush, Ultimate E4 ticklist, James' Winter Grit ticklist, The Roaches 3 Star Extravaganza, Definitive *** Peak Grit, Peak District Grit Graded List, Peak District Grit (2020) *** List
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