UKC

20m.

Rockfax Description
20m. Climb the long curving flake to a good sit-down ledge. Finish up the steep and pumpy crack in the right arete. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Connoisseur's Classic Rock , Advanced beginner Hen Cloud and Ramshaw , Classic Rock , The Roaches - Routes Graded List , Western Peak Grit 100 VD - VS , ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List , 100 Western Grit Stars , Hen Cloud , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Peak list

Feedback

User Date Notes
LakesWinter 26 Sep Show βeta
βeta: Thought I'd warm up on a 'nice easy severe'!!!! This is quite pushy but very good climbing. 100% not VS either
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Thought I'd warm up on a 'nice easy severe'!!!! This is quite pushy but very good climbing. 100% not VS either
locksbury 23 Aug Show βeta
βeta: Start can be slippy with lichen, ensure good anchored belay, so you don\'t unintentionally end up head first in the gully as I did! Second go, with higher cams worked a treat.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Start can be slippy with lichen, ensure good anchored belay, so you don't unintentionally end up head first in the gully as I did! Second go, with higher cams worked a treat.
will_king 24 Apr Show βeta
βeta: Block at the base of the wide crack is loose. It rocked when I pulled on the back of it. Ok to pull downwards/stand on. Belay with caution!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Block at the base of the wide crack is loose. It rocked when I pulled on the back of it. Ok to pull downwards/stand on. Belay with caution!
Duncan Bourne 9 Aug, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: A great route, possibly best done in two pitches if you have an unconfident second. The thing with Modern is it looks deceptively slab like but isn't and never lets up from the off (a part from the wide ledge near the top). Lots of varied climbing thin crack start, jamming, lay-backs and a finally pumpy race for the top.
Show beta
βeta: A great route, possibly best done in two pitches if you have an unconfident second. The thing with Modern is it looks deceptively slab like but isn't and never lets up from the off (a part from the wide ledge near the top). Lots of varied climbing thin crack start, jamming, lay-backs and a finally pumpy race for the top.
Andy Hardy 14 Aug, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Big gear needed for the wide crack!
Show beta
βeta: Big gear needed for the wide crack!
krikoman 13 Jun, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Me too I thought It was HS and thought is was hard at that but when I found out it was S I needed a sit down, we did Central on Hen and it was easier than this.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Me too I thought It was HS and thought is was hard at that but when I found out it was S I needed a sit down, we did Central on Hen and it was easier than this.
Offwidth 4 Jun, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: I agree with jon (even if he is contradicting himself elsewhere: see Thompsons Route 1). Rather ridiculous at severe on both sections.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I agree with jon (even if he is contradicting himself elsewhere: see Thompsons Route 1). Rather ridiculous at severe on both sections.

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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
Votes cast 140
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
Votes cast 125
Votes cast 107
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Via Dolorosa

Grade: VS 4c ***
(Roaches Lower Tier)

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