UKC

25m. On the east face (no routes in guidebooks).
Start half way down below east Arret.
A lot 5
8m below an obvious outcrop of slab from the base of the tower, 20-30 m from East arret.

An obvious but shallow crack ascends diagonally straight towards the top of the Tor, finishing at the white rock much closer to the top of east arret.
The lower part of the climb needs 3 slings to protect, and more cleaning wouldn't hurt.
The crux is 2/3 of the way up. A sloped mantle move. It is adequately protected using a no1 nut carefully placed just below but your 2nd needs experience to get this out again.
Top anchor is easily built in the continuation of the same crack as it goes straight across the summit and extended back to the edge.
Bring offsets and slings for this climb.
Longer ropes are helpful, or spare anchor ropes will be needed as the anchor is well back.

* This newly updated climb is waiting to be checked by the crag moderator.

Ticklists

Mournes and Moorhill Severes

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Route of Interest

White Walls

Grade: S 4a ***
(Spellack)
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