UKC

Climbs 178
Rocktype Grit (quarried)
Altitude 233m a.s.l
Faces SW

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Blind Ambition: Jesse Dufton on his non-sight lead of Forked Lightening Crack at Heptonstall © Molly Dufton

Crag features

A secluded but imposing quarry, cut into the hillside, below the charming 'village that time forgot' of the same name. It has a fine set of climbs that are bigger than is usual for grit, following powerful lines on good rock. Most of the better routes follow cracklines and corners with good gear and solid jams being the order of the day. The steep angle and long pitches will take its toll on your forearms though so make sure you are ready for a battle. The harder routes tend to follow the walls between the cracks giving tenuous and technical climbing but mostly with good gear in the nearby cracks.

The crag faces southwest and is both sheltered and rapid drying. Although it offers protection from the wind, the surrounding trees make it midgy in humid weather.

Approach notes

The quaint village of Heptonstall is reached by a narrow road that rises steeply from the A646. There is no access to this when westbound so continue for a few hundred metres until a signed turning circle on the left is reached. On entering the village, follow signs to the extensive car park by the Working Men's Club.

Walk up the track to the left of the houses for 200m, then turn left down a walled track. This soon leads to the rim of the valley where a set of substantial gritstone steps wind down into the quarry, which is located just round to the left, an easy 10 minutes from the car.

Would it be worth putting some information regarding the crag on it's Crag Features section on the homepage? Right now it's just someone promoting their youtube video.
Steve Perry - 29/Aug/16
Sorry to post this on here, but thought it was best to warn people. Had my bag taken at the outcrop this evening. Gear appeared in the woods, obviously just wanted to money and bank card. Watch out and stay alert.
HannahGo - 17/Jun/16
A lovely spot on a summer's evening.
Becks87 - 28/Jun/15
An good spot with enjoyable climbs, its regularly climbed unlike many of the smaller quarrys in the area making the rock itself relatively clean.
agolay - 20/Sep/10
The directions in the Yorkshire Grit guide are a bit confusing - don't take the narrow 'walled path' next to the entrance to the social club car park, as this adds an extra 15 mins walkin! The crag is actually only a few mins from the car park - take the wider 'walled lane' opposite the car park, then turn left through the new housing estate to bring you to stone steps leading down to the crag.
Nick Smith - UKC - 04/Jun/06
hi,Its a worthwhile crag with good bouldering.
Geraldine Taylor - 07/Feb/03
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Climbs at this crag

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