Rocktype Grit (quarried)
Altitude 233m a.s.l
Blind Ambition: Jesse Dufton on his non-sight lead of Forked Lightening Crack at Heptonstall © Molly Dufton
A secluded but imposing quarry, cut into the hillside, below the charming 'village that time forgot' of the same name. It has a fine set of climbs that are bigger than is usual for grit, following powerful lines on good rock. Most of the better routes follow cracklines and corners with good gear and solid jams being the order of the day. The steep angle and long pitches will take its toll on your forearms though so make sure you are ready for a battle. The harder routes tend to follow the walls between the cracks giving tenuous and technical climbing but mostly with good gear in the nearby cracks.
The crag faces southwest and is both sheltered and rapid drying. Although it offers protection from the wind, the surrounding trees make it midgy in humid weather.
The quaint village of Heptonstall is reached by a narrow road that rises steeply from the A646. There is no access to this when westbound so continue for a few hundred metres until a signed turning circle on the left is reached. On entering the village, follow signs to the extensive car park by the Working Men's Club.
Walk up the track to the left of the houses for 200m, then turn left down a walled track. This soon leads to the rim of the valley where a set of substantial gritstone steps wind down into the quarry, which is located just round to the left, an easy 10 minutes from the car.
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