The large corner on the right of the buttress is a big route which is often dirty and mossy.
1) 4b, 12m. Climb the groove on the right side of a rib, left of the steep chimney. Belay on the ledge.
2) 4c, 14m. Move right until below the crack and climb it to a grass ledge.
3) 4c, 12m. Climb the groove until it is possible to step onto a pinnacle on the left.
4) 5a, 15m. Step off the pinnacle and move up cracks to a grass ledge on the left. The steep crack above leads to the top. It is possible to walk across the ledge to the top moves of Gormenghast if the final crack is out of condition. © Rockfax
O R D Pritchard, B S Schofield May/1958.
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