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Climbs 207
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 413m a.s.l
Faces SW

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Lucy Creamer on The File (VS 4c), Higgar Tor, Peak District © Jamie Moss

Crag features

Higgar Tor is not an extensive venue but it manages to have a major impact courtesy of the Leaning Block. Steep and powerful climbing is the order of the day here and, in general, the routes only succumb to a forceful approach; hesitation will be punished with pumped forearms and a 'gritstone kiss'. The striking central line of The Rasp is the showpiece of the crag, a stunning outing that is typical of many of the routes - an overhanging crack with the odd good jam and plenty of jugs. Typically, protection is plentiful but placing it is tiring and the finishes may leave you breathless and battered. There is a theory that the routes feel under-graded because the block is slowly tipping.  

The Leaning Block is the main event but the shorter walls to either side also have worthwhile offerings but don't expect any soft touches. There is plenty of bouldering to be found, some of which has been covered here, although it is quite highball and the landings are not very friendly. The abrasive-tool-themed names of the routes are an indication of the nature of the rock here.

Approach notes

Higgar Tor is on the west side of Burbage Valley, overlooking the minor road running down to Hathersage. There is roadside parking on the right-hand side as it starts to descend towards the valley. From the parking walk down the road for about 100m to a stile on the left. Cross the stile and contour the hillside to the right. The cliff appears as you round the ridge, less than 5 mins from the car.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Android and iOS devices.


Guidebooks

Eastern Grit

Updated and expanded edition of the award-winning Peak Grit East. Covers all the best routes on the eastern Gritstone edges of the Peak District - Wharncliffe, Rivelin, Dovestone Tor, Bamford, Stanage, Burbage North, Higgar Tor, Burbage South, Millstone, Lawrencefield, Yarncliffe, Froggatt, Curbar, Baslow, Gardoms, Birchen, Chatsworth, Cratcliffe, Black Rocks
More info

Peak Bouldering

The Peak Bouldering Rockfax is a massive book covering a huge area including all the main bouldering venues of the Peak District. It includes many more low-grade problems than have ever been documented before including 17 circuits with problems at V0+ 5a and under, and a further 21 circuits with problems at V2 5c and below.
More info
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Climbs at this crag

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