Access Banned

The quarry is currently closed for climbing. A new lease has been agreed with the landowner and the new tenant has plans to blast there again.

30m. Start as above and climb the easy ramp rightwards to where the steep corner begins (bolt belays available here). Climb the leaning corner with flakes on the right wall to gain a glacis above. Make delicate moves left across the slab above a small overlap, then up into a right slanting break. Follow this more easily and head up to an inverted V apex in the overlap barrier. Tricky moves over this and a crucial section past a horizontal break lead to delicate climbing slightly left then back right on the final headwall to reach the lower offs.

24.06.2022 K. Phizacklea, I.Cooksey 24/Jun/2022.


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High 7c+
Mid 7c+
Low 7c+
High 7c
Mid 7c
Low 7c
High 7b+
Mid 7b+
Low 7b+
Route of Interest
Super Duper Dupont

Grade: 7c ***
(Chapel Head Scar)

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