Access Banned
The quarry is currently closed for climbing. A new lease has been agreed with the landowner and the new tenant has plans to blast there again.
30m.
The original and the easiest line of resistance on the central wall. Start as for Astute below the right hand end of the slanting shot hole. Climb up scoops to a line of small horizontal pockets. Use a finger pocket above to reach a letterbox feature and another pocket to gain a standing position. Step across right into a niche then make an awkward move up and right to gain the big central ledges. Climb more easily up right and back left to a slim corner at the left end of a line of overlaps. Pull out left and up to a scoop then step back right to the start of a prominent diagonal crack line. Follow this to the lower offs.
02.06.2022 P. Whillance, A. Towse, R. Bartlett 02/Jun/2022.
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Route of Interest
Cadillac
Grade: 6c+ ***
(Mill Side Scar (Millside Scar))