UKC

Restricted Access

Even though the outcrop is on Open Access land, the general local concensus is that climbers should still ask for permission to climb from the owner. Her bungalow is behind and above the outcrop – at the right-angled bend in Tea Garden Lane.

Access is sensitive due to issues around overcrowding and inconsiderate parking - please park responsibly and avoid parking on the roadside verges.

7m.

Rockfax Description
Amongst the finest of new route achievements on southern sandstone in the last century and a well known last great problem. Balancy climbing up and onto the vague rib with delicate tip-toe technique moving left along this. Reaching crimpy slots below the top leads to a final slap to a sloping hold at the top. Much harder for the short! © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
An amazing line on the left side of the Purgatory wall. Follow the vauge curving line of weakness up the wall. A balancey start leads to some hard pulls near the top. A boulder accent in the future would be nice weghing in around 8A in this style, although a few pads would be nice. May be impossible for the short?

Rhys Whitehouse 11/Sep/2020.

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Sandstone Sendables

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Route of Interest
Rusty Wall

Grade: 8a+ ***
(Bulls Hollow Rocks)

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