120m, 5 pitches.
A low-grade adventure with varied, fun pitches. Big cams useful!
Start to the R of SW Corner (Mod) at a fine, inset slab between two large boulders.
P1: Climb the left-hand corner (well-protected) to a ledge. 10m
P2: Ascend the easy rib above until it steepens. Step L into the bottomless chimney/crevasse. Struggle up this as elegantly as possible (!) to a thread belay. 10m
P3: Climb the obvious fine crack directly above the belay until it eases. Step down and right and traverse easily to a large block belay. 15m
P4: Step R and climb the fine, curving crack (well protected) which leads easily but with interest to a good stance below bushes. 35m
P5: Follow the cracks or slabs to their R, to a double bolt belay at the top of P3 of High Sierra.
Either abseil High Sierra, or descend on foot from the summit (just above the belay).
Start to the R of SW Corner (Mod) at a fine, inset slab between two large boulders.
P1: Climb the left-hand corner (well-protected) to a ledge. 10m
P2: Ascend the easy rib above until it steepens. Step L into the bottomless chimney/crevasse. Struggle up this as elegantly as possible (!) to a thread belay. 10m
P3: Climb the obvious fine crack directly above the belay until it eases. Step down and right and traverse easily to a large block belay. 15m
P4: Step R and climb the fine, curving crack (well protected) which leads easily but with interest to a good stance below bushes. 35m
P5: Follow the cracks or slabs to their R, to a double bolt belay at the top of P3 of High Sierra.
Either abseil High Sierra, or descend on foot from the summit (just above the belay).
Alex Cowan, Jonty Mills & Henry Day Jan/2018.
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Mlewis | 1 Nov, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: P2 up the large crack would need a Large Silver or Purple can to protect. So fairly bolt with a standard rack! The route can be done without jamming techniques! | ||
|
Show beta
βeta: P2 up the large crack would need a Large Silver or Purple can to protect. So fairly bolt with a standard rack! The route can be done without jamming techniques! |
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Route of Interest
Starlight Express
Grade: HS 4c ***
(Adrar Umlil)