Climbs 129
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 150m a.s.l
Faces W

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Chris Jackson at the crux of Debauchery, High Tor © Gordon Stainforth

Crag features

Simply the best limestone outcrop in the Country containing face climbing of outstanding quality. Routes (up to 60m long)like Debauchary (E1 5b,5b), Darius (E2 4c, 5c), Robert Brown (E3 5c, 5b), Supersonic (E5 6a), Flaky Wall (E4 5c), Castellan (E5 6b,6a) and Bastille (E6 6b) are the most well known of a huge number of high quality routes here. Of the few easy routes, Skylight (VS 4c) Highlight (HVS 5a) and especially Original Route (HVS 5a) are well worth doing.

Although justifiably best known as a Trad crag the Right Wing has been extensively bolted in recent years by Gary Gibson to give a range of lower grade Sport routes. On the Main Face there are a selection of harder Sport routes in the Castellan Cave area and similarly on the Left Wing High Torquing and Wil E Coyote are fully bolted. Of note Mad Max and Roadrunner on the Left Wing are both "Sporty" being mainly protected by fixed gear.


Approach notes

From the flesh pots of Matlock Bath cross the footbridge under the Cable Cars and follow the footpath past the Ticket Office and then back left to contour the hill below the crag, (10 min). Turn left to enter High Tor Grounds, walk to the top of the first set of steps. Climb over/around the fence with the BMC sign. Continue down the narrow path, turn right and you will arrive at the right face. Continue along the path to the other faces.
For abseil access a padded steel chain has been placed around the obvious tree to avoid damage. Be aware of loose blocks on the first 2m and potential danger to those below. Walk up the path all the way to the top, continue to above the left face. The chain on the anchor point appears very weathered.

Parking at the station, as recommended in the current guide, costs 4 so well worth car sharing, or at least meeting up out of town first.
Guy Maddox - 24/Aug/04
bit of a discrepancy about POTS being the best sport route with one star whilst WilE Coyote has 2 ! Personally I think the stars are right
Simon Lee - 11/Feb/04
Highlight is NOT an easy route - far from it. Superb crag, even if you hate limestone.
DaveP - 19/Mar/02
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