Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Altitude 293m a.s.l
Franco on the F.A of 'Curious Intrigue' at the forgotten and neglected leftside of Highcliffe Nab © Dave Warburton
One of the best crags on the north york moors with 3* classics from severe right up to E7. Magic in the air is one of the best routes anywhere.
Ladies First (VD)
Highcliffe Crack (S)
Hearthrob Crack (VS) Flaked Crack (VS)
Holden's (HVS) Knuckle Duster (HVS)
Queer Street (E1 - bold) Scarecrow Crack (E1) Wombat (E1)
Rockhopper (E2 - bold) Peeler (E2)
Magic in the Air (E6/7)
Predominantly north facing, this crag is best on a summer's day after a few day's dry weather, though most routes are fine throughout the year after a few dry days. Many of the previously neglected routes at the far end of the crag have recently been cleaned up (as of summer 2016) and are well worth seeking out.
From Hutton Village (Grid NZ 601 137) take the forest track for 300m, turn sharp L then contour round ignoring paths that lead up or downhill. 250m >from the farm take the 3rd right and climb steeply up, and take a small path on left that leads to crag. (20 mins)
The popular area of the crag offers a limited number of fine routes throughout the grades. Top-outs are steep and a narrow path forms the walk off and requires care. There are a few belay stakes and some rock anchors, preinspection could benefit first time visitors. The Nab is popular with walkers and locals, care should be taken with bags and gear left at the base. The north face extends above the plantation and although suffering from lack of traffic, there are a number of worthwhile routes available to those prepared to seek them out.
|I've cleaned a few routes at the left hand end as they were looking sadly neglected.
From left to right:
- Holden's Wall (HVS)
- Holden's Right Hand (HVS)
- Green crack (HS)
- Green wall (VS)
- Frank's Folly (VS)
- Peeler (E2)
- Flange Crack (E2)
- Sunset Crack (HVS)
- Sarcophagus (HVS)
- Wee Dot (HVS)
- Knuckleduster (HVS)
- Ping (E1)
- Twin Cracks (HS)
I've cleared the brambles and branches from the bottom of the crag too so it's easy enough to walk all the way along from the popular end now. I've also cleared the brash left over from the feeling at the top of the Peeler/Flange crack area as it was a nightmare walking through it to get to the belay trees.
Hopefully this might encourage folk to venture down there a bit more as there are some cracking routes to be had, especially Ping, Peeler and Holden's.
Get stuck in!
Anti-faff - 11/Jun/16
|After installing a new stake above Ladies First & doing it we found a very large loose block under the overhang of the 4c direct, please take care if anywhere near this as its ready to go. Also check out Final Outcrop area, theres a stake above Green Crack now which should do for a fair few climbs & they could do with more traffic although they're still worthwhile!
phleppy - 28/Jul/11
|Since most of the trees have been felled at the front this place has got better, it dries quickly apart from winter obviously & I reccomend a visit to the left of the crag as a few routes have been cleaned & are seeing more wind & sun these days, the future seems bright for this place!
phleppy - 02/Aug/10
|Dont listen - this crag is usually in a crap state since the forest cover was cut back. It is disintegrating on the right and getting moss covered on the left. Only those climbing at a very high standard will get much out of this crag. Most visitors stick to the defined cracklines to the right as can be seen from the crag record. In 6 visits I have always gone back to repeats of the safe routes.
beaumap - 26/Sep/09
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