UKC

21m. From the sentry box on Devil's Armchair, move left and finish up the slab.

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Yestoadventure 31 Mar Show βeta
βeta: Came off it on the top slab; ripped out two pieces of not-great gear placed on the slab above me to attempt to protect a move slightly beyond me this early on in my climbing career, but the bomber gear I'd placed in the sentry box (gold offset - apparently a legendary piece) held. Lovely 4m drop and swing, nice catch by my belayer. Highlight of the route though was when I posted about it on facebook after, and some armchair arse decided to weigh in "as an RCI trainee" and comment on how inappropriate it was that I had placed not-great gear and fallen off. Two things: a) "as an rci trainee" is not an authorative position to criticise from - you may as well poo-poo the latest medical advancements as a hospital porter. I am an RCI trainee, it is not a difficult thing to be, and I do not regard myself as an authority on pretty much anything climbing-related. b) since when do climbers not have little moments on tricky moves, place iffy or ill-considered gear and fall off stuff? It's somewhat normal.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Came off it on the top slab; ripped out two pieces of not-great gear placed on the slab above me to attempt to protect a move slightly beyond me this early on in my climbing career, but the bomber gear I'd placed in the sentry box (gold offset - apparently a legendary piece) held. Lovely 4m drop and swing, nice catch by my belayer. Highlight of the route though was when I posted about it on facebook after, and some armchair arse decided to weigh in "as an RCI trainee" and comment on how inappropriate it was that I had placed not-great gear and fallen off. Two things: a) "as an rci trainee" is not an authorative position to criticise from - you may as well poo-poo the latest medical advancements as a hospital porter. I am an RCI trainee, it is not a difficult thing to be, and I do not regard myself as an authority on pretty much anything climbing-related. b) since when do climbers not have little moments on tricky moves, place iffy or ill-considered gear and fall off stuff? It's somewhat normal.

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Route of Interest
The Wasdale Crack

Grade: HS 4c ***
(The Napes)

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