UKC

55m. Finds a way up thin cracks and grooves in the wall left of Second Coming.
Start 6m left of Second Coming at a large block abutting the wall. Step left off the block and up via a short groove and some crumbly ledges to the start of the obvious thin crack line. Follow this trending leftwards to reach a thin flake ledge and double bolts at 25m (possible belay, or better pull the rope through to reduce drag). Continue a few metres to where the crack ends then finger traverse the slanting break right to a steep groove. Up this to an overhang then make a blind traverse right around a rib into a short groove. Climb the groove onto a steep slab and tiptoe right on a thin break till a pull up via a drill hole leads to a good ledge. Finish more easily up to the right.

P. Whillance, K. Phizacklea 18/Aug/2024.

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User Date Notes
JamesAlexanderTurnbull 10 Sep, 2024 Show βeta
βeta: Double ropes are useful to manage rope drag. Possible to back clean some of the bolts too to help with this or if you don’t have enough draws.
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βeta: Double ropes are useful to manage rope drag. Possible to back clean some of the bolts too to help with this or if you don’t have enough draws.

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Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Onsighted
Redpoint
Dogged
DNF
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest
Dangerous Davies

Grade: 7b ***
(Coudy Rock)

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