40m.
Re-cleaned and re-bolted with a direct start and finish added - The Cleaver Direct 7a **
(P. Whillance, K. Phizacklea 24.7.2024).
A direct line up the slab left of Fatal Attraction. Start 3m right of Sasquatch. Step right onto the slab and climb it past two bolts to reach an obvious undercut flake. Awkward moves up and left to gain the rib and the shallow groove on its left. Up the groove to a good ledge then traverse the break rightwards a few metres to the start of a thin crack line. Follow this with sustained interest to reach the upper break just left of Fatal Attraction and the grassy bay. Up the flake crack above onto the upper slab then climb this trending rightwards to finish carefully at a rock scar left by a fallen tree (or move left to the final moves of Sasquatch).
(P. Whillance, K. Phizacklea 24.7.2024).
A direct line up the slab left of Fatal Attraction. Start 3m right of Sasquatch. Step right onto the slab and climb it past two bolts to reach an obvious undercut flake. Awkward moves up and left to gain the rib and the shallow groove on its left. Up the groove to a good ledge then traverse the break rightwards a few metres to the start of a thin crack line. Follow this with sustained interest to reach the upper break just left of Fatal Attraction and the grassy bay. Up the flake crack above onto the upper slab then climb this trending rightwards to finish carefully at a rock scar left by a fallen tree (or move left to the final moves of Sasquatch).
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| SCClimb | 18 Sep, 2024 |
Show βeta
βeta: Hey Pete, I appreciate the work you have put into this route and others in the quarry recently, thank you for that. We probably have different view points on some of the bolting in Hodge, personally I'd advocate something more like the scare bolting seen on some of the routes on the North Wales slate, but probably best to respectfully disagree. Don't want to tred on the old debates here! As for the grade, I found it easier than Sky, hence suggesting 6b, but there's not much in it. Sam Clarke | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Hey Pete, I appreciate the work you have put into this route and others in the quarry recently, thank you for that. We probably have different view points on some of the bolting in Hodge, personally I'd advocate something more like the scare bolting seen on some of the routes on the North Wales slate, but probably best to respectfully disagree. Don't want to tred on the old debates here! As for the grade, I found it easier than Sky, hence suggesting 6b, but there's not much in it. Sam Clarke |
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| Pete whillance | 2 Sep, 2024 |
Show βeta
βeta: Oh dear. Who moderates the Moderator (SCClimb?) (especially when they don’t sign their name to their opinions?). It’s Cleaver Direct now (with a new independent start and finish). The central section - the original Cleaver was rebolted exactly like for like. Not been climbed for many years due to loose rock and very dirty. Done with the full support, permission of, and reclimbed with, Keith Phizacklea - the original first ascentionist. This was never a trad route. General consensus now is 6c **. Pete Whillance. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Oh dear. Who moderates the Moderator (SCClimb?) (especially when they don’t sign their name to their opinions?). It’s Cleaver Direct now (with a new independent start and finish). The central section - the original Cleaver was rebolted exactly like for like. Not been climbed for many years due to loose rock and very dirty. Done with the full support, permission of, and reclimbed with, Keith Phizacklea - the original first ascentionist. This was never a trad route. General consensus now is 6c **. Pete Whillance. |
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Route of Interest
Interstellar Overdrive
Grade: 6c+ ***
(Chapel Head Scar)