UKC

Climbs 163
Rocktype Grit (quarried)
Altitude 125m a.s.l
Faces N

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Think Millstone x 2, splitter cracks & an esoteric slant...... © Rich Kirby

Crag features

Hoghton Quarry is probably one of the best gritstone quarries in the north of England. It would certainly not look out of place next to Millstone Edge. However, in recent years, restricted access has meant that it is rather overgrown in places. That said, it is well worth a visit. Slabs, walls and roofs abound and there are still a couple of obvious aid routes knocking around, complete with ancient aid tat. The whole experience is wrapped up in a hidden venue which would probably be quite familiar to Robin Hood. Williness to clean a route and a keen sense of adventure are required by this crag, but those who persist will be totally rewarded.

Approach notes

Access is restricted to the summer months. Bird restrictions may apply so please check the BMC access database for up-to-date information.
0830-1730 Sunday to Tuesday
0830-2100 Wednesday to Saturday

Access is sensitive so please do not climb outside these times.

Restricted Access

The De Houghton Estate permit access to Hoghton Quarry for climbers who are BMC members, providing the agreement made with the Estate is followed. This agreement has come about following extensive negoitations and could be withdrawn if notadhered to, so please make sure you follow it closely to ensure continued access to the crag in the future.

  • The permitted climbing season runs from 1st June-31st August. Outside of these dates no access for climbing is allowed.
  • Follow the parking and approach description below carefully - in particular do not cross the railway line to access the quarry, only use the railway bridge.
  • Peregrines nest in the quarry and these permitted dates are likely to be further constrained by a climbing restriction whilst they are nesting - see the 'seasonal restrictions' section below for details.
  • Visiting times are limited, so please plan your climbing carefully: 0830-1730 Sunday to Tuesday and 0830-2100 Wednesday to Saturday.  
  • At the top of a route, descend to the left or right around the perimeter of the quarry - do not walk towards the Tower
  • No portable radios

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 11 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

The restriction applies to the whole quarry and the progress of the birds will be monitored with restriction dates reviewed if the birds fledge early.

 

2020 update: the birds are expected to have fledged and access open from 11th July 

 

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