UKC

Restricted Access

The BMC has owned part of this popular sport climbing venue since 2005 (routes from Mr Cellulite’s Arete rightwards on the lower tier and from In the Jailhouse rightwards on the upper tier) and BMC land is actively managed for the benefit of climbers, walkers and conservation. Horseshoe varies from good quality, solid rock to significant areas of loose, hollow and blast shattered rock. Visitors should pay close attention at all times in case of loose rock and helmets are highly recommended whilst climbing or belaying.

In 2017, a re-bolting project took place on routes located on BMC owned land at Horseshoe to replace the old bolts and scale loose rock. The project replaced old fixed equipment of various vintage with new stainless steel glue in bolts, rationalised the bolt spacing on sport routes to reduce long runouts and standardised lower offs to double ring lower offs. A new lower off simulator has also been added to the large boulder below The Dust Bunnies on Main Wall to allow new sport climbers to practice re-threading rings before getting on the sharp end

19 routes were unfortunately decommissioned due to unstable or fractured rock which could not be scaled back to a solid state to place new bolts with confidence in their quality and strength. These routes have had their bolts removed and will not be re-equipped – we hope climbers will respect this decision.

Whilst this work has undoubtedly made the crag saferit has not and cannot make it completely 'safe'. This is still a quarried venue with blast damaged rock, subject to ongoing weathering and undoubtedly loose rock will develop again over time, not to mention all the normal hazards associated with climbing outdoors. It should also be noted that the areas of the quarry not owned by the BMC have not been re-equipped and there will still be old bolts which could be widely varying in age and quality. Whether re-equipped or not, assessing the quality of the bolts and rock they are placed in before and as you climb is still an essential part of the climbing experience at Horseshoe, as it is at any other crag.

Seasonal Restrictions

Reason: Nesting Birds

House martins sometimes nest on various routes on Main Wall - please avoid any routes with nests on whilst the birds are in residence.

20m. De-bolted

FA. Gary Gibson 2001.

Feedback

User Date Notes
Simon King 30 Apr Show βeta
βeta: There's a line of bolts Left Of Finishing Off. Has Mice Breaker been rebooted?
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: There's a line of bolts Left Of Finishing Off. Has Mice Breaker been rebooted?
dinesen 26 Apr Show βeta
βeta: Can’t see why this was debolted. It’s more solid than either route beside it and many others in the quarry. Finishing up to the belay of Fragmented would make sense. Should be re-instated!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Can’t see why this was debolted. It’s more solid than either route beside it and many others in the quarry. Finishing up to the belay of Fragmented would make sense. Should be re-instated!
Alan James - Rockfax 29 Oct, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: The bolts were removed from this route when the rest of the quarry was assessed. Not sure what the ascents since 2015 have climbed but it isn't this route.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The bolts were removed from this route when the rest of the quarry was assessed. Not sure what the ascents since 2015 have climbed but it isn't this route.

Logged Ascents

19 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Horseshoe Quarry

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Voting
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
Votes cast 4
Votes cast 3
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
Megalithic Man

Grade: 6b+ ***
(Horseshoe Quarry)

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