10m.
Start on the right hand side of the arete, climb easily up and right to reach a nubbin high on the wall. Use this to rock over, heart in mouth, onto the stunning clean slab. Finish direct with a long reach for the pocket. A stunning climb which was well ahead of its time when first climbed.
Tommy Smith 1979.
Ticklists
Selected county classics- mainly E4/5
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| joe s | 6 Oct, 2024 |
Show βeta
βeta: I hesitate writing this as it tarnishes the mystique of this route a little (Tears of the dawn, "an exercise in terror","Tommy had long arms and a longer neck"and all that) so if you want to keep the romance of the land of the far horizon that rolls processionally northwards alive I would recommend stopping reading now. The slightly degrading info is that, in contrast to most of the photos, with modern narrow headed cams (or possibly tricams) and pads and maybe brassies it is reasonably protectable as these things go. And hence fairly flashable, particularly if you have the attributes of Tommy. You place the main gear from a rest so you have plenty of time to decide. It's still probably worth popping your head over the top and looking at the pocket first! Disclaimer: listen to other people's advice and make your own decisions! | ||
|
Show beta
βeta: I hesitate writing this as it tarnishes the mystique of this route a little (Tears of the dawn, "an exercise in terror","Tommy had long arms and a longer neck"and all that) so if you want to keep the romance of the land of the far horizon that rolls processionally northwards alive I would recommend stopping reading now. The slightly degrading info is that, in contrast to most of the photos, with modern narrow headed cams (or possibly tricams) and pads and maybe brassies it is reasonably protectable as these things go. And hence fairly flashable, particularly if you have the attributes of Tommy. You place the main gear from a rest so you have plenty of time to decide. It's still probably worth popping your head over the top and looking at the pocket first! Disclaimer: listen to other people's advice and make your own decisions! |
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Route of Interest
Bones Don't Bounce
Grade: E5 6b ***
(Whiteheugh Crag)