UKC

Access Banned

The landowners have made it clear that they are against climbing on any part of the quarry. It is their assessment that the crag is too loose to allow climbing access.

Start at a vertical crack which splits the pillar in two. Climb the crack to a ledge at 3m Continue straight up to a recess and then trend left to a large ledge below the shale bands. Lower off or continue with great care into the groove which leads to the top.
This can be climbed as a sport route by clipping the bolt on Shackles.

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Route of Interest
Archangel

Grade: VS 4c ***
(Castle Eden Dean)

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