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Climbs 73
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude Tidal
Faces S

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Moving Away From The Pulsebeat © Karen

Crag features

Opinions on Huntsman's Leap vary from the "best crag in the World" to "a grotty hole in the ground", but they rarely venture into the "quite good" category - you will either love it or you will hate it. For those to whom it does appeal, the experience of climbing in this dramatic location is unforgettable and once you have started tackling the routes, you will continually be looking for the next one to tackle as you creep up the grade ladder.

Most people will make their first acquaintance with the slabbier routes on the East Wall where the rock isn't quite as good, but the best lines are well-cleaned and popular. Routes like Shape Up (E1 and the easiest exit), Beast from the Undergrowth (E2), Strap-Up (E3) and Quiet Waters (E2) are all top-notch challenges. Further seaward is the well-named Monster Face with its spooky routes at the narrowest section of the Leap - Mythical Monster (E3) and The Honey Monster (E2) being the classics here.

The true connoisseur though will spend most of their time on the West Wall since this is where the best of the Leap's treasures lie. The entry level is quite tough though - Bloody Sunday, an E4 for ambitious E3 leaders. After that the tick list opens up with virtually every route being a classic - check the table to the right to monitor your progress and maybe you can become one of the elite group of professors!

Approach notes

Tidal on almost every route.
 

Access Advice

Night firing normally occurs on Tues & Thurs but can alternate to Mon & Wed.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 1 August

Reason: Nesting Birds

The restriction from 'Charybdis' to 'Leap of Faith' (Boulder Choke area) remains in place until Aug 1st. The main parts of the Leap are not affected.  RESTRICTION LIFTED 22 JULY (FOR 2020)

Rockfax Digital

Available on Rockfax Digital

Rockfax Digital brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Android and iOS devices.


Guidebooks

Pembroke

This new app version of the Pembroke Rockfax has been significantly updated with 350 extra routes, new geo-located maps and updates to the existing information. The print guide from 2009 had 650 routes and this new app package has nearly 1000! The update includes many easier routes plus extra lines at the main crags covered in the book. It also has extensive deep water soloing coverage with the majority of the crags from Mike Robertson's 2007 Deep Water book added to the mix.
More info

Pembroke

This book from 2009 covers all the classic routes on the most popular crags of Pembroke. It covers the beautiful slab climbing around St. David's and all the best crags of Range East and the Lydstep areas, as far as Mother Carey's Kitchen. The range and variety of routes is enough to keep any climber happy; from those leading moderate grades keen to have a look for the first time, all the way to those who have developed lifelong obsessions for the place!
More info
Replaced the crucial second thread on 'Moving away from the pulsebeat' which ends a long runout. Probably still E5 for the insecure nature of the climbing up to it. The lower thread can be backed up. As good as the other leap E5s!
Ed morris - 28/Nov/14
I was down in Pembroke last week and on the one rainy days we got I decided to to something productive. I cut loads of old threads off the walls of Huntsman's Leap and replaced them. I replaced the threads on Mythical Monster (there was 8 in-situ - almost a clip up!), Beast From the Undegrowth, the three threads just above the ground on Feeding the Beast, Scorched Earth/Another Day has new threads, as does Scare City (thinking it was Head Hunter, only to find out later that it wasn't). In addition the threads on Bloody Sunday are in good condition. So, if ever there was a time to go to the Leap, it is now! (Threads replaced Aug 2013)
Dan Lane - 21/Aug/13
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Climbs at this crag

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