Altitude 835m a.s.l
Effort Face © WillDC
A closely-packed set of routes running steeply up the side of a rocky ravine. The ravine is called the Barranco de los Molinos. The routes are well protected and tend to be steep, strenuous and fingery. As is so often the case with out-of-the-way locations, the grades here can seem on the harsh side. The angle of the rock and sharpness of the holds don't help; be prepared to drop your sights a little or get beaten up. Climbers who operate in the 6s and low 7s and who enjoy technical faces should find enough climbing for a good day’s sport here. Many of the climbs have their names painted on the rock or stamped on the first bolt bracket.
The cliff faces north west and thus only gets the sun quite late on in the day, because of this it can be a rather cool venue in the winter. Early in the day it provides a shady retreat in hotter weather. There is often a breeze blowing down the Barranco which helps keep things cool when the heat is on and makes conditions bitter when the weather is cold!
Ibi is best approached from the A-7 motorway which runs from Alicante towards Alcoi. From the south, leave at junction 34 and drive into the town. Turn right at the first traffic lights onto the main street and follow this past a roundabout and some traffic lights to another set of traffic lights by a petrol station. There is no left turn here but overshoot the junction then do a U-turn to get onto the correct road. Drive down here until a right turn signed 'Banyeres de Moriola'. About 1km after leaving the town there is a right turn, just before the second bridge, and just beyond a ‘no overtaking’ sign. Drive down the track past a red ‘probihut fer foc’ sign and park on the right after 100m. Leave nothing in the car.
From the north, leave the A-7 at junction 40 and head straight into the town. This takes you to the junction above by the petrol station.
Walk to the mill and climb steps just in front of it to reach the base of the crag. Scramble up the slope to find the object of your desire - and some flat ground!
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