UKC

140m, 4 pitches. This is the 1st route on the left side of Careno Crag. Small cleft in the face behind maples with a bolt with a tricky boulder move. You can rap off to the right to the top of the Regular route, and then walk off on ledges to the NE, or rap down the Regular route, or walk around corner and rap down Bale Kramar after the 1st rap off the regular route.

Pitch 1, the crux is getting off the ground. There used to be a flake on the left that fell off making the start rather stiff. You can belay at the bolted anchor 40'( it is nice to leave the rack for the start and either haul it up from the first anchor and continue, or haul it so the second does not have to do the boulder problem with the weight.) up or continue up mossy gully to leftward traverse to the anchors at the base of the 2nd pitch( guide book calls this 5.9, maybe 10b now for the boulder start.

Pitch 2, cruxy face climb through bolts. (10a) some small cams too

Pitch 3, sustained hand and finger crack- classic! (10b) save a #3 or #4 for the top out- easy OW.

Pitch 4, fun 5.9 , directly above anchor at top of 3rd pitch, can be wet early season at the start. Mostly bolts with some cam placements. Crux mid way up layback up side pulls and crimpy.
The Heave Ho route around the corner is another great 4th pitch option.

Feedback

There is no feedback for this climb.

Logged Ascents

1 users have logged this

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High 5.10c
Mid 5.10c
Low 5.10c
High 5.10b
Mid 5.10b
Low 5.10b
High 5.10a
Mid 5.10a
Low 5.10a
Route of Interest
Sex Party

Grade: 5.10b ***
(Frenchman Coulee)

Loading Notifications...