UKC Logbook - 'Ciao Berbers'

5 pitches. Pitch 3 (crux). Climb the crack on the left in the red wall and trend leftwards to a ledge/bay (peg). Move left again on smooth rock (balancy) and exit onto easier ground.

(not really twin thin cracks as described in the book(s))

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User	Date		Notes
C Rettiw	19 Feb	Show βeta βeta: 2 star climbing, 3 star experience, 4 star view. HVS 5a/V+. The climb starts where the east ridge meets the very top of the col. P.1, S 4b: climb a few moves up a steep wall on sculpted holds to gain the ridge. Follow this easily, then transfer to the righthand ridge and follow this through a steepening, with some suspect rock, to ledges. Belay on the right of a huge overhanging block, below a prominent dogleg crack. P.2: HVS 5a, climb the steep, dogleg hand crack. Exciting and strenuous, with a tricky exit. Belay further up the slabs. P.3. HVS 4c: follow the short pleasant corner to a short traverse left. Gain to a small ledge with an aging piton. A balancey and bold couple of moves up a short wall gains easier ground. P.4. Move the belay 15- 20m up easy ground, to below a red tower with a distinctive hanging slab on the top right. P.5. VS 4b: climb the corner groove in the centre of the red tower, taking care with some rock. Gain the hanging slab on the right and move to its top. A tricky move up a steep short wall gains easier ground. P.6: scramble to the summit. Descent: Go to the highest point. Just before this, head down ramps and ledge systems to the north, then gullies and slabs to the west to meet the col between Igiliz and Agouti, following chamois droppings. Grade 2 scrambling in a consequential setting. Excellent day out.
Show beta βeta: 2 star climbing, 3 star experience, 4 star view. HVS 5a/V+. The climb starts where the east ridge meets the very top of the col. P.1, S 4b: climb a few moves up a steep wall on sculpted holds to gain the ridge. Follow this easily, then transfer to the righthand ridge and follow this through a steepening, with some suspect rock, to ledges. Belay on the right of a huge overhanging block, below a prominent dogleg crack. P.2: HVS 5a, climb the steep, dogleg hand crack. Exciting and strenuous, with a tricky exit. Belay further up the slabs. P.3. HVS 4c: follow the short pleasant corner to a short traverse left. Gain to a small ledge with an aging piton. A balancey and bold couple of moves up a short wall gains easier ground. P.4. Move the belay 15- 20m up easy ground, to below a red tower with a distinctive hanging slab on the top right. P.5. VS 4b: climb the corner groove in the centre of the red tower, taking care with some rock. Gain the hanging slab on the right and move to its top. A tricky move up a steep short wall gains easier ground. P.6: scramble to the summit. Descent: Go to the highest point. Just before this, head down ramps and ledge systems to the north, then gullies and slabs to the west to meet the col between Igiliz and Agouti, following chamois droppings. Grade 2 scrambling in a consequential setting. Excellent day out.