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Climbs 7
Rocktype Granite
Altitude 1520m a.s.l
Faces NW

Crag features

Crag in pure “old school” Orco style. No trail, giant ferns, climbing slabs, downclimbing tree rappels in a canyon- a little adventure. The reward, wonderful 25-30 meter cracks in full shade, it's always sweater cool!

Materials:
at least two sets of cams up to #4 BD. A few micros and nuts especially for "Chill al Parco".
Rope of 80 compulsory for descent by the gully.

 

Approach notes

In Cuorgnè take the Orco valley, follow it, once in Rosone take right for the Piantonetto valley. After passing the villages of San Lorenzo and San Giacomo, park on the right near some ruins and a fountain, just before a cottage inhabited year-round by a goat farmer (large boulder).
There is no real path, you climb the scree at best following red marks, probably made by enel maintainers or to its right nearby the ruins. These marks in fact point to the large pylon on the upper right of the scree. Always point to it. When the scree is over, you bend right into a grass gully nearby a slab; there is a service rope. The important thing then is to always aim for the pylon. Once reached, turn left in the direction of the gully and very briefly reach the crag. 30 minutes from the car on sometimes uneasy terrain, red marks.

Descent:

You can either come back from the way you came, or...

At the moment rappel on cord and maillon present on the tree encountered as soon as you reach the access ledge. Rappel from 45 meters. Then walk a few tens of meters into the gully and another rappel on chocked stones (always check that the rope behind has not taken stones and damaged).
You land at the base of the beautiful sport crag developed by Emanuel and still unfinished in the canyon, where there is also on the far left the “Pippo Muraiolo” crack - 6c+/7a 30 mt, expect two #6 friends, we had one, maybe so it is easier.
From there, following the grassy ridge briefly to the road, near the goat farm. Then on the asphalt to the car. 

Otherwise go down from where you came.

 

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