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Climbs 14
Rocktype UNKNOWN
Altitude 6302m a.s.l
Faces all

Crag features

A seldom climbed mountain, particularly from the W face, owing to it's long (2-3 day) approach. The easiest route is still an intimidating challenge, consisting of a 250m ice and snow headwall at 65 deg, folllowed by a continually deteriorating summit ridge of an additional 300m ascent. Other routes up the West face are serious outings of between D+ and ED, and it is oft stated that the hardest alpine climbing in all of Bolivia is conducted here. 

More information is to be found here:

Approach notes

The quickest approach is to travel from Sorata (2700m) to the tiny mountain village of Lackathiya (4010m) - this is best achieved with a simple taxi from town. From there one hikes west over a high pass (4800m) and down to the first campsite called Aguas Calientes. Do not be fooled by the name, there are no hot springs here and after sundown it is quite chilly. From here the route goes first NW skirting around the nearest ridge, and then U-turns south and upwards along the moraine. Here is the best spot to see the elusive condor, who have nests in the area. The second campsite is found at the terminal moraine section, about 100m below the snow line where water can be found (5100m). The final stretch takes you onto the glacier at around 5350m and continues through a crevasse field to 5600m - continue until you are pass the line of fall from Illampu's W face (obvious from the large ice missiles that litter one section of the crevasse field). You will be flanked by the headwall to the south and Pico Schultze to the east (even less often climbed than Illampu).

Access Advice

Not much except for perhaps wanting to hire donkeys in Lackathiya. The farmer in the third house you come to in the village by the roadside will hire to you easily enough, though arrange a day in advance to give him time to collect the animals. Calculate for no more than 2 rucksacks per donkey. 

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