UKC

Climbs 27
Rocktype Granite
Altitude 100m a.s.l
Faces NW

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Tim enjoying One Degree of Separation © Callum_Johnson

Crag features

Both of the crags listed are on the hill that sits above Inverfarigag (Dun Dunerail).

Sport 

Recently developed (2023)

A gently leaning wall of solid granite, fast drying and a pleasant outlook over Loch Ness. North West facing (sun from around 3pm). The routes range between 10 - 20 meters. 

To maintain a good relationship with the local ranger and Forestry Land Scotland it's been agreed that bolted climbing is to be restricted to the main buttress. FLS are keen for the subsidiary crags doted around to stay bolt free. Some being close to potential nesting sites. The last time Peregrines were sited nested above the crag was in 2021. If any nesting peregrines return in the future please get in touch and avoid climbing.

Trad

The first crag on the opposite side of the river is home to some adventourus trad routes. Its sheltered and is a sun trap. There are some loose blocks and it would benefit from a bit of a clean.

Directions

From inverness head for Dores, take a right turn and head along the B852 that runs along the south side of loch ness until it reaches Inverfarigaig. Turn left (sign posted to Errogie) and park in the big car park on the right (Farigaig Forestry Commission Car Park)

 

Approach notes

From the forestry car park continue up the road for 100 meters towards Errogie. At the big green Faragaig forestry car park sign head down through the trees to the river. Follow the river downstream for 50 meters to a large tree on a bend in the river. Hop over the river using natural stepping stones. Follow a well established path steeply uphill towards the trad cliff. (5 - 10 minutes)

To get to the sport crag allow a further 10 minutes, continue following the path that skirts around the bottom / left side of the trad crag, once the ground starts to flatten out you’ll pass on the right side of some big boulders. The path continues contouring the hillside for 10 minutes to reach the clearing and the crag.

Access Advice

Sport Crag

The last peregrine spotted nesting on the hillside above the crag was in 2021. If any nesting peregrines return in the future please get in touch and avoid climbing.

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Climbs at this crag

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