UKC

Climbs 78
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 2m a.s.l
Faces S

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Top Out! © JmzHow

Crag features

Just east of Hobbyhorse Bay is a well-preserved Iron Age fort on a promontory. For many years, climbing was banned here owing to archaeological interests. Restrictions have now largely been lifted, and the south-facing frontal cliffs give some great climbing on superb steep rock. The routes are mainly non-tidal and cater for most grades. There are also some stupendous overhanging lines.

Approach notes

Approach from Gupton Gate on the track marked by white posts in 75 mins, or 70 mins from Stack Rocks.

Restricted Access

Excellent crag west of Arch Zawn with routes from VS to E5. Formerly subject to a permanent restriction but now open as long as some simple access rules are followed:

Enter the Fort area via the original entrance (marked by yellow pots, no belay stakes allowed, minimise erosion. The west side of the promontory (NW of  'Wild Rumpus' is still restricted due to the lack of cliff top belays without placing a stake - this just covers the route 'Dawn Chorus' at present.

There is a chough nest in Arch Zawn (on approach to the fort crag). The following routs are restricted:  'Anaemia' to 'Archeology'

Please minimise disturbance while approaching the routes in this area.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 31 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

This just affects part of Arch Zawn on east side of the Fort: Routes 'Anaemia' to 'Archeology' inclusive
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