UKC

Climbs 21
Rocktype Rhyolite
Altitude 350m a.s.l
Faces SE

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Mike Hutton on Granolithic Groove (E1) at Iron Crag. © Alan James - UKC and UKH

Crag features

The routes at Iron Crag are far better than they look and the crag is located in a beautiful, quiet setting. The following lines are either popular or impressive, or both! Hiddenite (E2), Marble Staircase (E4), The Quest (E5), Black Gold (E5), The Committal Chamber (E5), Western Union (E6), Phoenix in Obsidian (E6/7), Pumping Iron (E7), If 6 Were 9 (E9). The left-hand buttress faces South East, the right hand buttress faces East and sees very little sun. 'Adopt A crag' has put in some hard work sorting out routes on Iron. Granolithic Grooves E1 Solidarity E1 Hiddenite E2 (superb and not serious as described in guide) and Marble Staircase E4 have all been climbed in last 2 weeks(May 2008). Phoenix in Obsidian has had 3 ascents in the last week, the poor peg below the roof has gone, but there is a bomber rock 5 placement which was somehow missed. The other pegs on the route are good and there are wire placements and a sky hook placement as well. The upper groove is tricky!! Grade for this route is E6 6b (F7B ??) and worth 3 *** and nowhere near as serious as it says in the guide. Other routes will be sorted soon, these are brilliant crags and are away from the hustle and bustle of Borrowdale. Get up There. Al.

Approach notes

Cross the road, and walk in the opposite direction of Keswick until you can turn right and head up to a farm. Go through the farm and follow a path through the trees until you hit a track. Turn right and follow this until you drop down and come out of the woods into the bottom of the valley and can cross the river over a bridge. Follow the path alongside the river until the crags come into view on a steep hillside up to your right. 40 minute approach.

Restricted Access

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 15 February to 31 May

Reason: Nesting Birds

Signed restriction applies to Central and Right-Hand Buttresses.

The Left-Hand Buttress is not restricted, but please only use the descent on the left side of the crag (looking in) and whilst approaching, move quickly and quietly until under the LH Buttress to avoid disturbing the birds.

Please report any observations of nesting ravens on the crag to access@thebmc.co.uk

Granolithic Groove Area- Unstable turf and blocks removed from just below fixed ab point. Route will need a good brush to remove the soil debris. 19/07/20
smally - 21/Jul/20
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Climbs at this crag

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