16m.
Start up the easy staircase of rock. By this point you are wondering what the grade was on about and make the mistake of mocking the rock. From this point on everything changes and the route turns into a shear/overhanging polished glass face. With a trickle of water running down your arm you fight with the ferns for space and place gear in cracks designed with such perfection that nothing fits with any satisfaction. Finish to the left of the fern-filled cave and place the last gear (bomber compared with the rest). For the last 3m take up rambling for the final heather scramble and hope that the flake will hold if you fall.
FA. Malc Baxter, Billy Graham 1960.
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| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| alr1970 | 27 Mar, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: Ignore the off-putting description and climb it, there's a great route hiding under the turf and heather (some gardening may be required). I did have the advantage of climbing it after a three week dry spell so there was minimal seepage. The gear was perfectly adequate if you have a good supply of cams. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Ignore the off-putting description and climb it, there's a great route hiding under the turf and heather (some gardening may be required). I did have the advantage of climbing it after a three week dry spell so there was minimal seepage. The gear was perfectly adequate if you have a good supply of cams. |
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Route of Interest
High Neb Buttress
Grade: VS 4c ***
(Stanage North)