Rockfax Description
(Spring Lust) A steep and powerful route tackling the superb crack system splitting the big rounded pillar overlooking Geitvika. The line is unmistakable, tackling the prominent line of cracks and grooves. The whole line has been thoroughly cleaned so there is little chance of getting lost. Bring PLENTY of cams including some big ones! "The best line on Lofoten" to quote one team.
1) N7-, 35m. Climb a crack to an overhang and continue to its end. Traverse left to another crack leading to a ledge.
2) N6+, 35m. The crack leads past a blank section, and a niche, to a fist/off-width section leading to a small stance.
3) N7, 35m. Follow the crack, then make a thin traverse right into another steeper crack and storm up this to a stance.
4) N5-, 30m. Climb discontinuous cracks, then move out right past a loose flake to the arete. Climb past a tree to the top. © Rockfax
Ticklists
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Fellover | 30 Aug, 2024 |
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βeta: The offwidth mentioned in the description does not climb like an offwidth and does not need a #4 (big grey) to protect. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: The offwidth mentioned in the description does not climb like an offwidth and does not need a #4 (big grey) to protect. |
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| Eduardo Martinez | 15 Aug, 2024 |
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βeta: Black Diamond #3 cam comes in useful for the offwidth. Keep pushing it up ahead of you. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Black Diamond #3 cam comes in useful for the offwidth. Keep pushing it up ahead of you. |
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| Eduardo Martinez | 15 Aug, 2024 |
Show βeta
βeta: There have been new ab stations installed. The top one is by the first tree about 7m up P4. Make sure you ab diagonally left staying close to the line of P3. The next ab station is about 5m right of the belay for P2. The last station is the belay for P1 | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: There have been new ab stations installed. The top one is by the first tree about 7m up P4. Make sure you ab diagonally left staying close to the line of P3. The next ab station is about 5m right of the belay for P2. The last station is the belay for P1 |
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King of Rock 'n' Roll direct
Grade: n7 ***
(Rorvika)