19m.
This route starts with overhang from the cave to a small corner on good holds, then continues along the corner up to the chain. There is always some good hold.
Petr Fiala Junior Aug/2019.
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| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| John Cuthbert | 6 Dec, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: Another poor approach description and bolting set up by Mr Fiala. Taking the approach from Krinakia beach, first follow the main road from Zakros, following an early sign right to the village of Xerokambos. At the first left hand bend in Xerokambos there is an easy to miss sign for the wild Krinakia Beach. Follow the dirt track for 5 or more mins (a river ford may be required to its end), and from the parking there is an obvious trial into the gorge with a goat gate. Follow now the faint and poorly marked trail that weaves between the undergrowth and take the first left hand bend after 5-8mins. At the next junction (15mins) the Gorge forks. take the left hand fork and some large caves appear ahead as do some boulders. Scramble over these (cairns) until a scree trail is reached on the left adorned with rubbish (the locals clearly heave it over the lip above from the road). On the left is a marked trail to The Whale sector (look for red arrow, and then red dots) which is pretty scrappy. On the right (Red arrow) is the scrappy scramble to the Almond sector (2 routes). 35mins to The Whale sector and not 10-20 as stated by Mr Fiala. First is a route of some quality, with some strange sandstone like rock and biggish moves between large pockets. I thought 6b rather than 6c (all the routes we tried were overgraded). Take care, it becomes a waterfall in a rain storm – as we discovered. This discovery helps explain why the fourth bolt is completely corroded and may not take body weight! The fifth bolt looks dodgy too. The LO just makes the grade, but there are clear signs of oxidisation. As with many of the other crags in the area, Mr Fiala has taken the wrong approach to the bolting!!! I don’t know how it is possible to give this any stars.. | ||
|
Show beta
βeta: Another poor approach description and bolting set up by Mr Fiala. Taking the approach from Krinakia beach, first follow the main road from Zakros, following an early sign right to the village of Xerokambos. At the first left hand bend in Xerokambos there is an easy to miss sign for the wild Krinakia Beach. Follow the dirt track for 5 or more mins (a river ford may be required to its end), and from the parking there is an obvious trial into the gorge with a goat gate. Follow now the faint and poorly marked trail that weaves between the undergrowth and take the first left hand bend after 5-8mins. At the next junction (15mins) the Gorge forks. take the left hand fork and some large caves appear ahead as do some boulders. Scramble over these (cairns) until a scree trail is reached on the left adorned with rubbish (the locals clearly heave it over the lip above from the road). On the left is a marked trail to The Whale sector (look for red arrow, and then red dots) which is pretty scrappy. On the right (Red arrow) is the scrappy scramble to the Almond sector (2 routes). 35mins to The Whale sector and not 10-20 as stated by Mr Fiala. First is a route of some quality, with some strange sandstone like rock and biggish moves between large pockets. I thought 6b rather than 6c (all the routes we tried were overgraded). Take care, it becomes a waterfall in a rain storm – as we discovered. This discovery helps explain why the fourth bolt is completely corroded and may not take body weight! The fifth bolt looks dodgy too. The LO just makes the grade, but there are clear signs of oxidisation. As with many of the other crags in the area, Mr Fiala has taken the wrong approach to the bolting!!! I don’t know how it is possible to give this any stars.. |
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Route of Interest
Stíny na duši
Grade: 6c ***
(Lamnoni Gorge, the Red Rock and Kókkino Vrácho sec)