UKC

Climbs 34
Rocktype Grit (quarried)
Altitude 190m a.s.l
Faces E

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KEMPLE END - Main buttress © prudol

Crag features

Small, quarried, quality gritstone crag.
Faces east and avoids the worst of the prevailing westerlies.
Sun till midday.
Short routes and bouldering.

Approach notes

Park on a rough area on the south side of the road at top of the steep Birdy Brow. Check map.

From the parking go left to the quarry rim, above Hodder Buttress, and walk south alongside the wall, not easy when the bracken is high in summer. Drop down between an oak and an ash tree. The quarry is on Common Land, but please respect the privacy of properties to the south.
Belay stakes above the Main Wall need 8ft extenders for the last few feet to overcome the grassy finishes, the in situ ropes are not to be relied on and often removed .

Only climbed, didn't boulder. The crag is OK for a quick visit, maybe an evening or half a day, but I couldn't spend much more time here and doubt I'd go back. Has a couple of routes worth a try but some are mucky and the top outs can be grim, only saved by the fixed ropes at the top (although I'd check these prior to climbing)
Neil Meredith - 29/May/18
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