Climbs 47
Rocktype Killas slate
Altitude 35m a.s.l
Faces SE

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Annika Marie progressing up the immaculate face climbing encountered on Rock Dancer (E1) at Kenidjack. © Richard Pollard

Crag features

Kenidjack's Main Cliff is an impressive sweep of killas slate that glows a golden brown in the sun and has a number of fine and challenging wall climbs that pick their way up the subtly featured face. The rock on the whole is good, although protection is not always close at hand. The base of the crag is sunny, sheltered and non-tidal, making it a good place to head for in windy weather.

Approach notes

From St. Just, drive north 0.3 miles to Nancherrow and, at the bottom of a dip in the road, turn left onto a narrow road. Drive along the road until it becomes unsurfaced - ignoring left turns - continue until a slight hill is encountered and a parking bay on the right. Park here (or carefully a little further on).

Walk up the track and take the left fork at a junction. Follow the track and footpath until it rounds a bend and two small quarried bays and a lone small pointed boulder mark the start of the descent to the Main Cliff. The other buttresses are located nearby.

No Access Issues

Tidal in parts, but mostly not other than in high seas when large swells can hit the crag.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 21 May to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

The restriction applies to the whole crag for four weeks whilst young choughs are fledging (when they are most vulnerable to disturbance).
Not sure if of benefit or anyone will see this, but birds are currently nesting (rather than starting 29th May as notes suggest). 27/05/16
thetradlad - 27/May/16
50m rope couldn't reach the bottom from large rounded boulder.
Joel Perkin - 26/Jul/14
Re. Ab from the boulder above the main wall - we managed fine with a sling and 50m rope (2 or 3m to spare) either the previous poster used the wrong boulder or had a shorter rope. The one we used is level with a rocky gearing up area and approx. half way between the main path and the cliff edge.
The Ivanator - 09/Jun/12
Loved the style of climbing at this crag - based on Saxon and Rock Dancer. In the Rockfax West Country guidebook an abseil from the a large rounded boulder above the main wall is described. I ran a sling round the boulder and a 50m rope didn't reach the bottom (approx 5-8m short). Had to set up another belay at the belay just above the main wall.
domskezz - 24/Sep/11
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