UKC

50m, 3 pitches.

Rockfax Description
The eye-catching line up the nose of the buttress. Start left of the base of the nose, at a steep slab with a short finger-crack up to its right.
1) 5b, 30m. Climb up the slab, move right and pull past an overhang (with difficulty) into a corner that leads to a ledge (possible belay). Traverse left to an open groove and climb this to where easier ground leads up the rib on the right to ledges and a belay next to a large block.
2) 4b, 15m. From the top of the block, finish up the slab and rib. © Rockfax

Ticklists

UK Lonely Leads , Lakeland's Best Multi-pitch Routes up to HVS , Ultimate HVS ticklist , Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Climbs The Lake District , ROCKFAX Lake District: Top 50 , Bill Birkett (Classic Rock Climbs in the Lake District) Below E3 , Lakeland E1 Classics , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3 , Lake District To Do List , Cumbria for the Recreational User , Ewans bug lakes ticklist

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User Date Notes
BenKent 17 Jun, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: bit of a nightmare route to second if using double ropes, easy to get one stuck round the overhang when you reach up
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: bit of a nightmare route to second if using double ropes, easy to get one stuck round the overhang when you reach up
C Witter 3 Apr, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Definitely E1 5b - it's not been HVS since 1934. A hard crux, even for E1, with small holds and smeared feet. After that, it eases back to pleasant 5a.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Definitely E1 5b - it's not been HVS since 1934. A hard crux, even for E1, with small holds and smeared feet. After that, it eases back to pleasant 5a.

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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 38
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 38
Votes cast 34
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Redpoint
Ground Up
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
Outside Tokyo/Dight

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Gimmer Crag)

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