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Climbs 283
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 200m a.s.l
Faces E

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Stretched out on Man With A Gun © kevavery

Crag features

One of Yorkshire's 'Big Three' limestone crags (the other two being Gordale and Malham). Mostly higher grade sport climbing but there are some very good trad lines including The Diedre(E2), Central Wall(E4), Deja Vu(E5) and Balas(E5). Classic sport routes include The Directissima(6c), Frankie Comes to Kilnsey(7b+), Dominatrix(7c), Comedy(7c), The Ashes(7c+), Let them Eat Jelly Beans(8a), Urgent Action(8a+), True North(8c) and Northern Lights(9a). Aiding the classic Kilnsey main overhang route is an exciting option for a wet day.

Approach notes

There is some limited parking in laybys at the southern end of the crag. There is a large layby 200m to the north of the cliff.  There is also plenty of roadside parking on the lane leading across the river to Conistone about 400m to the south. FINALLY please do not park opposite or obstruct the farmers gateway.

Restricted Access

The landowner does not like permadraws left in place on projects - please remove your kit between attempts wherever possible.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 May to 30 September

Reason: Nesting Birds

House martins frequently nest between May-September. Please avoid any routes with nests on or near while they are in use to avoid damaging the nests. It will be obvious which nests are being used due to parents flying in and out.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Android and iOS devices.


Guidebooks

Northern Limestone : Yorkshire, Cumbria, Lancashire

Northern Limestone : Yorkshire, Cumbria, Lancashire covers some of the best limestone crags in the UK including the big three of Malham, Kilnsey and Gordale. Alongside these titans are numerous other destinations that offer both sport and trad climbing throughout the grades, ranging from the intimidating walls of Blue Scar and Trow Gill to the long lines of newly-developed low to mid-grade sport crags such as Moughton Nab and Giggleswick South. Trad climbing is also well catered for on the walls and escarpments at the likes of Trowbarrow Quarry, Twistleton Scar, Attermire Scar and Witches Quarry.
More info
Left a size 40.5 pair of La Sportiva solutions under near Directissima on Thursday evening the 4th of June for a friend to collect Friday morning. Someone took them - please contact me if you saw anyone grab them!
Siara Fabbri - 07/Jun/20
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Climbs at this crag

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Name Grade Stars Type Logs Partner Ascents
These climbs you have climbed clean.
These climbs you have climbed by seconding or top-roping.
These climbs you have Dogged.
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Moderators Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteers Vybz and Adam Lincoln