UKC

Climbs 64
Rocktype Dolerite
Altitude 37m a.s.l
Faces E

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Pippa on Grey Panther (E1 5b), on the amazing Kilt Rock, Isle of Skye, Scotland © Jamie Moss

Crag features

Located on the east coast of Skye's Trotternish Peninsula, the striking rock formation known as Kilt Rock is a 180 foot high sea cliff giving several main climbing arenas of geographical & style segregation. The massive columns of dolerite have the appearance of pleats in a tartan kilt & traditionally form the basis of the Skye tartan pattern. This entirely natural phenomenon relates in appearance, although not identically, to the recorded basalt rocks at Staffa near Iona. Kilt Rock is a hugely popular viewpoint & plenty of parking is available nearby for climbers & kit.
This amazing columnar jointed dolerite gives an extreme rock outing that will stay with the climber for many years.
When rain and wind come from the west this can be perfectly dry.

Classics - Grey Panther, Wide Eyed, Footloose
Awesome - Sun Toucher, Killer Whale, Wide Eyed, Sheer Sear
Worrying - Crux Reverie

If bivvying or camping take into account that crofting/farming grounds surround the verticalities. The Kilt cliffs provide an excellent venue in their own right with plenty of gaps still to be filled. If the Cuillin is out of action due to bad weather you could do worse then visit Kilt, the Storr or, Rubha Hunish & the underated Cairn Liath [also covered in this section] whick overlooks Kilt in the immediate hills behind. Abseiling from the carpark railings beside Mealt Falls, will freak tourists out to the point of distraction.

There are parts of Kilt which are short of natural belays so an extra rope attached to steel stakes or the fence can be very useful.

Approach notes

Abseil descent for some routes & the entire venue can be treacherous in the wet, in storms. Hanging belays for some routes & projects.

Access Advice

Abseil descent for some routes & the entire venue can be treacherous in the wet, in storms. Hanging belays for some routes & projects.

 

Spoke with the lady that owns the land surrounding the rock. She expressed concern that the guidebook is encouraging people to jump her fences. She doesn't seem to mind people climbing but doesn't want to have to keep repairing her fences and is wary of putting a stile in place because this might encourage large numbers of tourists onto her land too. 
It would be preferable if climbers could access the fields leading to kilt rock via a gate just further up the road (opposite the post box). Cars can either be parked in the viewpoint car park or on the grass by the turning area (please do not block the turning space)

Two good new(ish) looking stakes 10m back from the edge of the descent gully above Secret Service/Clandestine. Just as fast/faster to set up an abseil to avoid the down climb of the gully which isn’t that much fun.
Nathan Adam - 25/Sep/20
\"Wide Eyed\" E2 5b is a top climb where you just have to trust your feet due to poor handholds, its 40m of vertical rock with twin cracks, the left one opening wide enough to do a whole body jam! But try not to do this as you won\'t want to come out!
Mark Falcus - 14/May/02
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Climbs at this crag

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