UKC

Climbs 53
Rocktype Mica schist
Altitude 100m a.s.l
Faces S

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Left-hand Crack, Kingussie Crag © Grahame N

Crag features

Many routes on slabby, mica schist however some routes offer little to no protection. That said, there are some lovely easier routes and the rock is compact and solid with great friction.

Most routes are 10-12m with some longer options on the lower crag.

Take care with ticks in the summer months when the ferns are in.

Approach notes

Park by the river just outside the caravan park. Take your first left in the caravan site, up the short hill to pass a gate. From here follow the path for 10-15 minutes until your reach a deer gate / style with a sign post for "the crags". A few more minutes and you reach the lower side wall, continuing up the path takes you to the upper crags.

Took part in a Trad climbing introduction here. It's a nice wee crag with a lot of different options at different grades. We only climbed at the upper Tier which is small but with two faces. It's a pretty easy walk in and the options for building anchors (both natural and gear placement) at the top are excellent. It's pretty exposed so bring plenty layers if it's windy.
drconline - 01/Oct/20
The route to the crag is no longer as the guidebook says; instead you follow signs from near the caravan park's entrance. Also, the belay bolts mentioned in "Highland Outcrops" are long gone - take some long slings to build belays round boulders!
MatthewV - 02/Sep/12
Top area for top roping and single pitch leading. Grades for everyone. Great views of Strathspey and surrounding area. Best route there is probably The Groove. Pity it's so short.
Mick Townshend - 08/Jun/06
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Climbs at this crag

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