35m, 3 pitches.
Start to the left of the ivy-covered rock (left of Blind Date) and just to the right of where the ground rises steeply up a bank.
1) 5a, 10m. Climb up leftwards into the main groove/crackline to reach a good ledge under an overhang.
2) 5b, 10m. Climb up the left side of the overhang and continue up cracks to reach another good ledge (large old ravens nest) beneath another overhang. Old peg.
3) 5b, 15m. Step delicately rightwards to pass the overhang and up the groove (some suspect rock) passing 2 ancient pegs and carabiners (presumably a failed previous attempt?). At the large roof just above, make a tricky, constricted traverse left to reach the left edge of an overhang and finish on good holds above.
Descend by abseil (30m or so) from one of the trees at top.
1) 5a, 10m. Climb up leftwards into the main groove/crackline to reach a good ledge under an overhang.
2) 5b, 10m. Climb up the left side of the overhang and continue up cracks to reach another good ledge (large old ravens nest) beneath another overhang. Old peg.
3) 5b, 15m. Step delicately rightwards to pass the overhang and up the groove (some suspect rock) passing 2 ancient pegs and carabiners (presumably a failed previous attempt?). At the large roof just above, make a tricky, constricted traverse left to reach the left edge of an overhang and finish on good holds above.
Descend by abseil (30m or so) from one of the trees at top.
FA. Mick Fowler, Steve Burns 25/Jun/2025.
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Route of Interest
Millsom's Minion
Grade: E1 5b ***
(Stanage Plantation)