UKC

450m. A monster ice-fall forming on the eastern side of Drivdalen with a total length of some 450 m. The route is a classic for the area and also for Norway itself and starts just above the footbridge on Vårstigen.

The route has a very alpine feel becoming harder and more serious with height. Much of the ice can be climbed solo or simul-climbed for speed. Overall the route has a very adventurous feel with some walking, easy climbing and the opportunity to take steeper lines if desired. Good belay possibilities everywhere.

The lower parts of the route can be bypassed until the icefall proper which is common early in the season. This leaves approximate 100-150m (3 pitches) of ice to be climbed again at almost any grade depending on choice of route.

The descent by foot follows the plateau to the south down and across the first gully (don't go down this as it becomes an ice route). Diagonally traverse to the south along a series of small shelves until directly in line with the car park. Head diretcly downhill avoiding a few small cliffs. In good snow conditions it is possible to butt-slide much of the descent.

Kongsvollfossen is best climbed between January - March when the fall is thicker and better formed. However, it is not uncommon for ascents to be made as early as October and the route along with Sprenbekken (Brugdomsbjølla) or Overraskelsen is one of the first to get climbed each season.

NB. The guidebook gives the route WI-3, however it has become common the last few seasons for the last pitch to be quite complex and much harder. The head-wall often suffers from wind-blown ice features. These typically form as huge hollow umbrellas or wild sprawling cobras. In these conditions expect a grade closer to WI4+ or harder.

Unknown.

Ticklists

Drivdalen Classics

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Voting
High WI-4+
Mid WI-4+
Low WI-4+
High WI-4
Mid WI-4
Low WI-4
High WI-3+
Mid WI-3+
Low WI-3+
Votes cast 8
Votes cast 8
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Repeated
Onsighted
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Kongsvollfossen (via Rød-Diederet)

Grade: WI-4 ***
(Kongsvoll)

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