Rockfax Description
(Northwest Passage) The left-hand of this pair of lines up a series of impressive grooves eventually trending away leftwards.
1) N5-, 2) N5, 3) N6, 4) N6-, 5) N6+, 6) N7-, 7) N5+, 8) N7-, 9) N6, 10) N5. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Follows the obvious left trending crack system left of Ögat.
1) 25m, Climb the detached flake (N5-)
2) 25m, Step right then up into the clean RF corner system. Belay at a small stance (N5)
3) 25m, Continue up the corner, traversing under the roof and up to a small stance (N6-)
4) 50m, Up then over a bulge trending left in the corner to a small stance (N6-)
5) 50m, Climb the remaining corner system to a semi hanging belay (N6+)
6) 45m, The traverse pitch. Head out left under the roof then up the airy corner for 5m before boldly traversing left 2m to gain the next crack system. An airy & excellent pitch (N7-)
7) 40m, Easier climbing up the next corner system (N6)
8) 25m, Easier climbing leads to a deluxe grassy ledge (N5+)
9) 45m, A tough start on loose rock leads to a wider crack system & gradually easier climbing. Another bold pitch. The Crux? (N7-)
10) 40m Continue up the wide corner, before trending left under the roof & the final summit (N5)
Stian Bruvoll, Philip Curry Aug/2019.
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| stianbruvoll | 3 Sep, 2024 |
Show βeta
βeta: I placed a bolt on the crux after climbing the route twice. I recon it has the potential to be a classic, but the crux pitch is dangerous. Though it's possible to remove the bolt. I drilled a deep hole. It's all up to the public if you all would like to have that bolt. No ego will be harmed if not, | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: I placed a bolt on the crux after climbing the route twice. I recon it has the potential to be a classic, but the crux pitch is dangerous. Though it's possible to remove the bolt. I drilled a deep hole. It's all up to the public if you all would like to have that bolt. No ego will be harmed if not, |
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| arose | 16 Jul, 2024 |
Show βeta
βeta: Pretty sure pitch 7 doesn’t exist! A better pitch description might be…. 1) 30m Climb up to the detached flake and carefully up its right side. 2) 25m, Step right then up into the clean RF corner system. Belay by flakes at a small stance 3) 25m, Continue up the corner, traversing under the roof and up to a small stance 4) 40m, Up then over a bulge trending left in the corner to a small stance 5) 40m Climb the remaining corner system to a semi hanging belay 6) 45m, The traverse pitch. Head out left under the roof then up the airy layback for 5m before boldly traversing left 2m to gain the next corner crack. An airy & excellent pitch 7) 25m, Easier climbing leads to a deluxe grassy ledge 8) 45m, crux. Step up left from the belay (peg) make hard moves up a thing layback to the bolt and peg runner. Traverse left to a wider crack and easier climbing. 9) 40m Continue up the wide corner stepping out left and back right to avoid a moss weep, follow the crack out left under the roof to the top | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Pretty sure pitch 7 doesn’t exist! A better pitch description might be…. 1) 30m Climb up to the detached flake and carefully up its right side. 2) 25m, Step right then up into the clean RF corner system. Belay by flakes at a small stance 3) 25m, Continue up the corner, traversing under the roof and up to a small stance 4) 40m, Up then over a bulge trending left in the corner to a small stance 5) 40m Climb the remaining corner system to a semi hanging belay 6) 45m, The traverse pitch. Head out left under the roof then up the airy layback for 5m before boldly traversing left 2m to gain the next corner crack. An airy & excellent pitch 7) 25m, Easier climbing leads to a deluxe grassy ledge 8) 45m, crux. Step up left from the belay (peg) make hard moves up a thing layback to the bolt and peg runner. Traverse left to a wider crack and easier climbing. 9) 40m Continue up the wide corner stepping out left and back right to avoid a moss weep, follow the crack out left under the roof to the top |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Kuglhornet
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Ögonblicket
Grade: n7- ***
(Kuglhornet)