Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Altitude 154m a.s.l
The Nadser © Sean Bell
The crag is very steep. There are some very goodVS-E1 routes. Most of the easier stuff is overgrown. The bouldering is the best in the county, often dry in wet weather.
Please don't use excessive chalk and clean it off before you leave..
Scottish Woodlands (the landowner of Kyloe In) have confirmed that access is now permitted at all times, regardless of stalking activity at Kyloe-in-the-woods (Kyloe-In).
It is crucial that climbers approach the crag via the track described below and do not deviate from it or the crag. Do not thrash through the woodland from Kyloe Out.
Parking and Approach
Parking is limited at Kyloe so please be considerate - make sure your vehicle doesn't block the road or any gates. NOTE THAT THE GATES AT kYLOE IN OPEN OUTWARDS. Do not park in the gate 'fan'. Scottish Woodlands do access the woods some weekends so it is vital the gate isn't blocked.
The agreed approach starts at the northern gate: grid reference NU 03532,38982. Follow the forest road up a slight incline. After about 600m A track merges from the right, ignore this and continue to a fork 100m ahead . Take the right branch. Follow the right fork for 300m then turn right at the T-junction. The rocks soon appear to the left of the track just after an obvious disclaimer sign.
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