300m, 10 pitches.
The East wind, D, 5b max. Take some small trad gear for extra protection, esp on the third pitch traverse. Also have slings and bits for setting up the belays. A long climb of 10 pitches sparse protection with run outs of over 10m in places. Some very beautiful parts and varied climbing styles.
Personally one of my favorite multi pitch climbs. Beautiful rock, especially on the top 3 pitches.
Walk off to the left and down.
Follow the signs for the Fort du Salettes, at the fort find the narrow path that leads up to the left of the fort and where the path meets the rock you will find the base of the climb.
Personally one of my favorite multi pitch climbs. Beautiful rock, especially on the top 3 pitches.
Walk off to the left and down.
Follow the signs for the Fort du Salettes, at the fort find the narrow path that leads up to the left of the fort and where the path meets the rock you will find the base of the climb.
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Butel | 19 Mar |
Show βeta
βeta: I think 5c is a bit harsh for this. Camp to camp gives it 5c+. I'd give it 6a.Topo on camp to camp seems slightly wrong. Don't go up when searching for the third bastion, you need to drop down to it. Also the 10 meter down climb traverse (aka pitch 11) although kind of fun for the leader is a bit pointless as you can walk down to the belay for pitch 12. | ||
|
Show beta
βeta: I think 5c is a bit harsh for this. Camp to camp gives it 5c+. I'd give it 6a.Topo on camp to camp seems slightly wrong. Don't go up when searching for the third bastion, you need to drop down to it. Also the 10 meter down climb traverse (aka pitch 11) although kind of fun for the leader is a bit pointless as you can walk down to the belay for pitch 12. |
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Route of Interest
Le Dièdre Sud
Grade: 5c ***
(Orpierre)