4 pitches. A route from the half-way ledge of La Dent De Man to the top, including some very high quality climbing. The grade is not settled. The crux pitch sequence was figured out while cleaning, is very specific and the gear there is not good. E4 would perhaps be a little more accurate for an onsight ascent but hoping that further repeats or discussions will settle this. A fall would likely result to a tumble onto the slab below and even a sprain is far from ideal up here. It would be recommended to inspect the climb on the ab, especially since it might need a clean.
On reaching the summit plateau via the log ladder, go immediately right, where the crag drops a couple of metres onto a ledge, with a notch on the left. Abseil down the notch, trending rightwards until the half-way ledge is reached.
100m static rope recommended for the abseil. 50m half ropes sufficient for the climb.
P1 (E1 5c-ish). Start at the bottom of a crack, to the left of the triangular block. Climb up the crack until level with the top of the anatomically correct heart shaped block on the left. Traverse carefully onto the block then enter the magnificent corner crack that keeps on giving. Belay 2m from the top of the crack.
P2 (HVS 4c). Mantel onto the ledge at the top of the crack. Step down and left and foot traverse to a large hole. Arrange a good anchor and belay from below the hole.
P3 (E3 5c). The crux pitch. Small Superlight Rocks recommended. From the hole, step up and right, place a singular very small nut, then make an involved rising left traverse on nothing but sidepulls until a good flat hold can be reached. Much harder for the short. Pad up and left into the delightful pod and climb to the ledge. Belay from the bottom of the crack.
P4 (HVS 5b). The offwidth. Bring *LARGE* gear. Climb the crack... or not! Climb easily to the top.
Alkis Tsapanidis, Oliver Ross 07/Jan/2019.
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