Altitude 353m a.s.l
Perhaps the most impressive of all the crags in the local area. This wall tucked up a side valley has an air of peaceful tranquility and holds an amazing number of stunning routes. It’s a quieter venue than its neighbours and crowds are unlikely. Well worth the effort to reach as the quality of the routes is generally very high.
Initially slabby it steepens throughout to a final capping bulge that looms over the wall below. This provides a series of stupendous finishes in the main on enormous holds!
The bird ban for the first 6 months of the year is strictly enforced and at the time of writing the crag has, in places, a slight feeling of “needs more traffic”. This in no way detracts from the quality of these stunning routes.
From the A35 approaching from either direction leave at junction 37 for Montesa.
Coming from Valencia leave motorway and at first roundabout take 5th exit which curves back under the A35 to another roundabout. At this take the 1st exit curving rightwards and almost immediately take a left marked with a green signpost “Barranc de la Fos” (photo of this sign is in crag photos). Coming from Alicante slip off and at roundabout take 2nd exit and then after the slight curve immediately take the left at the green sign.
Follow road downwards following further green signs at junctions. Some sections are on dirt tracks but not too rough. Eventually pass under the railway line and just a little further on round a corner a final rough section leads steeply down to parking.
This is on private land so please park considerately. From the lower parking take the left hand of two tracks downwards to skirt the orange grove to meet a concrete ramp which slopes down to the left. Follow this down to meet a decent wide footpath beside river. Turn right and follow this to shortly find a notice and smaller path on the left. The notice explains the seasonal restriction on climbing.
*the recent flooding in this area(September 2019) has made approaching and crossing the river more tricky, there are three fallen pine trunks to negotiate before the river can be gained*
From the signpost gain and ford the river (stepping stones) on gaining the opposite bank follow gently rising path away from river. Continue on this for a short distance until a dried up stream bed is crossed and follow the path beyond for a further 70m or so to find two large pines on the right and cairn. Leave the main path to follow the path on the right rising steadily through scrub to gain a broad ridge and initial views of the crag in the distance. As the path peters out in areas of bedrock continue following small cairns rising steadily getting closer to the crag.
Eventually several rocky steps are negotiated with the assistance of metal rungs and some old bits of fixed rope.
Approach time: 30mins
Despite the seemingly long walk it is actually quite a pleasant one, not overly strenuous unlike say sector 3 at nearby Vallada.
The crag is bird banned from Jan 1st to June 30th each year.
|Sun left the crag by 11 in late December
Neil Binns - 01/Jan/20