UKC

260m, 6 pitches. One of the most popular routes at the crag. Very well equipped.

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User Date Notes
James Dunn 2 Jul Show βeta
βeta: Road closed during the day from July through August. Tourist bus runs from Chemieux (tourist info office has timetable). Trail to crag from paved road is about 3km from the parking and 200m ascent and very walkable: turn back on yourself once you get just above the obvious dam. Absolutely no need for trad gear. Didn’t place a single piece. Wouldn’t try to link pitches even on 60s; much better stances just belaying at the bolted belays. Could link pitches 3 and 4 but they are nice independent pitches and it was also nice to have the belayer close to watch you on P4 anyway! Abbed off (watch for blocks at pitch 3 belay).
Show beta
βeta: Road closed during the day from July through August. Tourist bus runs from Chemieux (tourist info office has timetable). Trail to crag from paved road is about 3km from the parking and 200m ascent and very walkable: turn back on yourself once you get just above the obvious dam. Absolutely no need for trad gear. Didn’t place a single piece. Wouldn’t try to link pitches even on 60s; much better stances just belaying at the bolted belays. Could link pitches 3 and 4 but they are nice independent pitches and it was also nice to have the belayer close to watch you on P4 anyway! Abbed off (watch for blocks at pitch 3 belay).

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Route of Interest
South Ridge

Grade: D+ 5c ***
(Aiguille de Moine)

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